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Home/Journal/The History of Roman Dress — and Why It Still Shapes Modern Elegance
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The History of Roman Dress — and Why It Still Shapes Modern Elegance

From the stola to the toga to Tyrian purple — how classical dress quietly defines what we still call elegant.

Beatrice Conti·Creative Director·4 March 2026·8 min read

Hugo Caesar Tassi takes its name and its instincts from imperial Rome — not as costume, but as a design philosophy. To understand the house, it helps to understand the dress that shaped Western ideas of elegance for two thousand years.

The stola: the dress of the Roman woman

The respectable Roman woman wore the stola — a long, column-like dress, often pleated, belted to define the waist, layered over a tunic. Its lines were vertical and exact: the same fluted geometry you see in a temple column. The house's knife-pleated skirts are a direct descendant.

Drapery as engineering

The toga and the palla (a woman's mantle) were essentially uncut cloth, arranged with extraordinary skill. Roman dress was about how fabric falls and folds — drape as engineering. Modern bias-cut satin and draped jersey columns carry the same idea forward.

The color of power

Tyrian purple — a deep, reddish wine — was so costly it was reserved for emperors. Fresco reds covered the walls of Roman homes. Color was status. The house's imperial palette — Porpora, Vermiglio, Cornelia — is drawn from exactly this source.

Why it still reads as elegant

Vertical line, a defined waist, restraint in detail, depth in color — the Roman grammar of dress is, almost unchanged, the grammar of modern elegance. That is the house's whole argument: that the oldest ideas about how a powerful woman dresses are still the best ones.

It's an idea you can wear. Begin with the Faustina collection, or read the wedding-guest guide.

Frequently Asked

What did Roman women wear?
Respectable Roman women wore the stola — a long, often pleated, column-like dress belted at the waist over a tunic — typically with a palla (mantle) over it. Vertical line and drape defined the silhouette.
Why was purple reserved for Roman emperors?
Tyrian purple — a deep, reddish-wine dye made from sea snails — was extraordinarily expensive to produce, so its use was restricted to the highest ranks, including emperors. It became a symbol of imperial power.
How does Roman dress influence modern fashion?
The Roman grammar of dress — a vertical pleated line, a defined waist, restraint in detail, and depth of color — still underpins what we consider elegant. Pleated skirts, draped silhouettes and deep reds all trace back to it.
BC
Written by

Beatrice Conti

Womenswear designer & stylist · Florence-trained · 15 years in Italian ateliers

Beatrice Conti is the Creative Director of Hugo Caesar Tassi. She trained in womenswear cutting in Florence and spent a decade between Milan and Rome ateliers before founding the house's studio, where she leads its occasion-dress collections and writes The Journal's dressing guides.

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Pieces from the house, chosen for this edit.

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The Faustina Collection

Aurelia™

Pleated Chiffon Midi Dress with Cutout Bodice
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The Livia Collection

Cornelia™

Draped Column Maxi Dress
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The Faustina Collection

Faustina™

One-Shoulder Crepe Gown
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